Mastering eye makeup for hooded, mature eyelids doesn’t have to be complicated. It’s one of my most requested tutorials, and for good reason — almost all of us will experience hooding as we age. As elasticity decreases, the upper brow bone gently folds over the natural crease, concealing the mobile lid.
At almost 49 years old, with fairly large eye beds, I don’t have fully hooded lids…yet. My left lid is starting to droop a bit more than the right — but nobody has perfectly symmetrical lids, and that’s okay.
Today I’m walking you through the exact techniques I use on clients with hooded lids. The secret to brightening and lifting mature eyes lies in strategic placement of shadows, liner, and mascara.
Makeup class is in session.
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Your Hooded‑Eye Toolkit
- Lid primer – Ulta Matte Veil longwear eye primer ($13)
- Loose powder – NYX Wonder Snatch setting powder “translucent” ($12)
- Eyebrow pomade + angled brow brush – Anastasia Beverly Hills DIPbrow pomade “medium brown” ($25) and ABH dual angled brow brush ($21)
- Eyeshadow palette with a combo of mattes and shimmer – Urban Decay Naked Reloaded palette ($50)
- Brushes: a fluffy one and a smaller tapered one – BK Beauty 202 brush and BK Beauty 207 brush
- Soft Gel Eyeliner w/ smudger – Victoria Beckham Satin Kajal eyeliner “cocoa” ($35)
- Eyelash curler for hooded lids – Jenny Patinkin Hooded Lid Curler ($20)
- Lengthening mascara – Gucci L’Obscur Lengthening mascara ($36)
Step 1: Prime and Set
Our lids naturally produce oils that cause shadow to smudge or transfer into folds. Sweep a thin layer of anti‑crease primer across the entire lid up to the brow bone, then lock it in with translucent powder.
This creates a smooth canvas and makes blending effortless.
Step 2: Don’t Ignore the Eyebrows
Brows frame the entire eye bed. As brows thin with age, the eyes lose structure — making makeup look less lifted.
Use a brow pomade to fill sparse hairs and create definition. It’s more forgiving than a pencil and helps anchor the whole look. Here’s a simple way to think about filling in your brows on this post, Stop Overcomplicating Your Makeup Routine.
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Step 3: Map Your “Fake” Crease (Look Straight Ahead)
The biggest mistake? Applying crease shadow with your eyes closed. When you open them, the color disappears. Grab an eyeshadow palette with great neutrals and has a blend of mattes and shimmer shades like this Naked Reloaded palette.
Instead, look straight ahead into a mirror. Use a matte mid‑tone shade and sweep it slightly above your natural fold, creating a soft “banana” shape — fuller in the center, tapered at the edges.
This visually pushes back the hood and opens the eye socket.
Step 4: Brighten the Mobile Lid
Keep the moving part of your lid bright. Press a soft satin or shimmer shade across the center mobile lid. Light tones pull the lid forward and make eyes look larger.
Add a touch of shimmer to the tear duct for extra brightness.
Skip shimmer on the brow bone — use matte ivory instead.
Step 5: Add Soft Outer Depth
Use a darker matte shade on a small tapered brush. Apply to the outer third of the eye in a sideways V shape (< >), blending upward and outward.
Sweep leftover shadow ¾ along the lower lash line to soften creases.
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Step 6: Tightline — Skip Heavy Liquid Liners
Liquid liner eats up lid space and distorts in folds. Instead, tightline the upper waterline with a waterproof gel pencil like the Victoria Beckham one mentioned above.
Add a tiny upward dash at the outer corner and smudge for soft lift.
Step 7: Curl, Lift, Coat
Curling lashes is an instant eye lift. Use a hooded‑lid curler and clamp at roots, mid‑lash, and tips.
Finish with two coats of lengthening mascara, focusing on the center lashes. A friend of mine who loves makeup as much as I do, highly encouraged me to try this pricey Gucci mascara and I hate to say it is one of the BEST.
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The Rest of My Look
My Walmart Scoop Flowy blue pinstriped top ($30) is a fun take on a classic look. I’m wearing a size small. This pinstripe one from Tuckernuck is a similar vibe ($110).
Similar thin gold hoops with crystal center from Nordstrom ($90). Similar gold stacked Bauble Bar rings ($48).
My lip color is YSL Candy Glaze lipstick in 15 “Showcasing Nude” ($41), a personal favorite!
Closing Thoughts
If you have hooded lids — from genetics or age — don’t be frustrated. Decorate them. Try new techniques. Practice. And enjoy the process.
If you’re excited for fall beauty, check out last week’s post: 5 Fall Beauty Updates You Actually Need.
Tell me in the comments if you try these techniques — I’d love to hear.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I apply eyeshadow on hooded eyes?
Apply crease color above the natural fold while looking straight ahead.
Should mature women avoid shimmer?
Use shimmer on the mobile lid only — keep the brow bone matte.
What eyeliner works best for hooded lids?
A waterproof gel pencil for tightlining.
How do I lift drooping outer corners?
Use matte shadow in a sideways V shape and curl lashes.
Is mascara placement important?
Yes — focus on center lashes to open the eyes.
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