From Marie Antoinette to Audrey Hepburn — The White Shirt Through the Centuries
✨ Life Beyond Style: The White Shirt
Some things just stay with you.
The Moody Blues playing “Nights in White Satin” at your first dance — me in a black velvet dress with an enormous lace collar that my mother made by hand. The smell of cinnamon rolls, which I religiously made every Sunday morning, before everyone piled into the car for church. And that one piece hanging in my closet that never lets me down — no matter what decade it is, no matter what the trend reports say, no matter how many times I’ve washed, pressed, and tucked it in.
I’m talking about the white shirt.
I’ve been devoted to a white button-down for nearly 50 years. I have way too many — and I’m still on the hunt for the perfect one. I can picture one of my first: a crisp cotton Brooks Brothers shirt I wore with high-waisted trousers, thinking I looked like I had it all figured out. (I didn’t. But the shirt sold it.) Decades later, it’s still the first thing I reach for when I want to feel polished, pulled together, and unmistakably me.
But here’s the thing. The white shirt isn’t just a wardrobe staple. It’s a piece of fashion history — and a surprisingly powerful one. This week’s Life Beyond Style is a love letter to this iconic piece and the women who made it what it is today.
Table of contents
👑 A Scandalous Beginning
The white shirt’s moment in women’s fashion didn’t start on a runway. It started with a scandal.
In 1783, Marie Antoinette posed for a portrait by Madame Vigée-Lebrun wearing a loose, ruffled white cotton blouse dress — a far cry from the jewel-encrusted gowns and fine silks expected of French royalty. The painting caused an uproar. The queen was essentially posing in what people considered her undergarments. And in cotton, no less — a material considered beneath her station.
But that portrait changed everything. It put cotton — and the white shirt — on the map. For better and for worse, it sparked demand that rippled through the textile industry for centuries.
The white shirt had entered the conversation. And it never left.
The White Collar Revolution
By the late 1800s, the white shirt had become more than a fashion statement — it was a class marker. Men who wore white shirts to work didn’t work with their hands. They worked at desks, in offices, in boardrooms. The term “white collar” was coined by writer Upton Sinclair in the 1930s, but the distinction was already deeply embedded in American culture long before he gave it a name. If your shirt was white at the end of the day, you had status. If it was blue — the color that hid factory grime and sweat — you were labor.
It’s a fascinating contradiction when you think about it. A piece of clothing defined power precisely because it was impractical. A white shirt announced to the world that you could afford to keep it clean — that your work happened in your mind, not with your muscles. And when women began entering the workforce in greater numbers during the early twentieth century, they reached for the same symbol. The white blouse became the uniform of the female professional — a quiet declaration that she belonged in the room.
🎬 Hollywood’s Love Affair
If Marie Antoinette planted the seed, Hollywood grew it into something iconic.
In the 1920s, Coco Chanel broke the rules wide open — swapping corsets for men’s shirts and putting women in trousers. She gave women permission to borrow from the boys, and the white shirt was at the center of that revolution.
Then came the golden age. Katharine Hepburn wore hers with wide-leg trousers and bare feet, looking like she didn’t care what anyone thought — and that was exactly the point. Lauren Bacall made it smolder alongside Humphrey Bogart. Marlene Dietrich paired it with a tuxedo and a look that dared you to say something.
And then there was Audrey. In Roman Holiday, she rode through the streets of Rome in a white shirt with the sleeves rolled up and the collar popped, and the world collectively swooned. That single outfit — so simple, so effortless — became one of the most referenced looks in fashion history.
Later, Diane Keaton reimagined it in Annie Hall. Uma Thurman made it dangerous in Pulp Fiction. Julia Roberts made it romantic in Pretty Woman. Princess Diana made it modern, pairing hers with jeans and ballet flats in a way that felt both royal and completely approachable.
Every generation gets a woman who takes the white shirt and makes it her own. Every single time, it works.
👗 The Designer’s Obsession
Some designers have entire careers built around the white shirt. And I think that says everything.
Carolina Herrera — sometimes called “the Madonna of the white blouse” — has made it her signature for decades. She once said, “I love white shirts because they feel like a security blanket. You can wear them with anything. It’s the person and the way that they wear it that makes it different.”
I love that. Because it’s true. The white shirt doesn’t wear you. You wear it. And no two women wear it the same way.
Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré was so captivated by the white shirt that he devoted an entire book and exhibition to it. And when Anna Wintour chose to celebrate Vogue’s 100th issue in 1992, she didn’t put the supermodels in couture gowns. She put Linda, Christy, Naomi, and Claudia in white shirts and jeans. That was the statement. The white shirt was the moment.
Ralph Lauren — a designer I’ve loved since 1977 — understood this too. His entire aesthetic is built on the idea that some things don’t need to be reinvented. They just need to be worn well. The white shirt sits at the heart of that philosophy, and honestly, at the heart of mine.
🪞 Why It Matters More Now
Here’s what I’ve learned after a decade of getting dressed in front of a camera: the pieces that last aren’t the ones that shout. They’re the ones that frame.
A white shirt frames your face. It sharpens your shoulders. It gives your jewelry something to rest against and your jacket something to contrast with. It’s the starting point for everything — and at this stage of life, I think that’s exactly what we need. Not more. Better.
When I put on a white button-down, I’m not thinking about trends. I’m thinking about the women who wore this before me — queens and actresses and designers and mothers who stood in front of their own mirrors and thought, this is who I am today. There’s something deeply grounding about wearing a piece with that kind of history behind it.
💫 How I’m Wearing Mine Right Now
This week, I styled my white button-down two ways — because the best pieces in your closet should never be one-note.
The Foundation: A crisp white shirt tucked into black ankle trousers, finished with a slim belt, slingbacks, pearls, and a structured black bag. This is the look I reach for when I want to walk into any room — a lunch, a meeting, a coffee date — and feel quietly confident. No fuss. No overthinking. Just good bones.
Beth’s Style Tip: The collar does the work here. Make sure it’s pressed and standing — it lifts your whole face and gives the outfit structure. A limp collar changes everything, and not in a good way.
The Transformation: That same white shirt layered under a cropped red plaid jacket with gold buttons. Suddenly, the entire energy shifts — from understated to statement. The jacket adds warmth, pattern, and personality, but the white shirt underneath keeps it grounded. It’s the anchor.
Beth’s Style Tip: When layering a jacket over a button-down, leave the top button of the shirt undone and let the collar sit naturally over the jacket’s neckline. It looks intentional without looking fussy — and it keeps things modern.
👚 The 10 Best White Shirts Worth Investing In
Now that you know the history, let’s talk about the shirts. I’ve worn many white button-downs over the years — some forgettable, some I’ve repurchased three times. Here are the ten I’d recommend, from investment-worthy classics to smart Amazon alternatives that punch well above their price point.
The original. Brooks Brothers literally invented the button-down collar, and their Supima cotton is beautifully smooth, opaque, and holds its shape wash after wash. This is the one I’ve been wearing since I was in my twenties. If you’re going to own one white shirt, make it this one.
Why I love it: Truly no-iron. The collar stays crisp. The fabric has real weight to it — no sheerness.
You knew this was going to be on the list. Ralph’s oxford shirt is the definition of relaxed polish — it was born to be layered under sweaters and blazers or worn on its own with jeans. The cotton has that lived-in softness without looking sloppy.
Why I love it: Classic preppy aesthetic. Runs slightly relaxed, which I prefer for tucking and layering.
This one has a cult following for a reason. The washed cotton is incredibly soft out of the package — it feels like you’ve owned it for years. The relaxed fit is flattering without being oversized, and the curved hem looks equally good tucked or untucked.
Why I love it: Effortlessly chic. The fabric drapes beautifully and gets better with every wash.
An excellent polished option at a more accessible price point. The cotton poplin fabric gives it a crispness that reads dressy, and the non-iron technology actually works. The fit is relaxed not sloppy, so it layers beautifully under blazers.
Why I love it: Smooth, refined finish. Great for when you want your white shirt to look a little more elevated.
J.Crew has always understood the white shirt assignment. The Garçon in Irish linen — sourced from the historic Baird McNutt mill — is their relaxed, warm-weather take on the classic. It has that perfectly lived-in drape from the first wear and only gets better with time. Not too boxy, not too fitted.
Why I love it: Irish linen breathes beautifully, softens with every wash, and gives you that effortless French-girl ease. Perfect for spring and summer.
I know many of you are already nodding — this shirt has a loyal following in our community for good reason. The no-iron fabric genuinely lives up to the promise, which makes it a dream for travel. The fit is a bit more relaxed, and Chico’s sizing runs its own way, so check the chart.
Why I love it: Pull it out of the dryer and go. No pressing, no fussing. For real.
If you haven’t discovered Quince yet, this is a great place to start. Their organic cotton oxford is thick, opaque, and well-made — and it costs a fraction of what you’d expect for this quality. The fit is classic and clean.
Why I love it: Incredible quality for the price. Sustainably made. A real hidden gem.
Let’s be honest — sometimes you need a white shirt that you don’t worry about. This Amazon Essentials poplin is surprisingly good for under $25. It’s not going to replace your Brooks Brothers, but for layering under sweaters, throwing on with jeans on the weekend, or keeping as a backup, it more than holds its own.
Why I love it: No-guilt pricing. Solid construction. Comes in a wide range of sizes.
Lands’ End has been quietly making some of the best wardrobe basics for decades, and their Supima cotton shirt is a standout. It’s truly no-iron, comes in regular, petite, and plus sizing, and the fabric has that smooth, quality feel. If you love Brooks Brothers but want something at a friendlier price, start here.
Why I love it: Inclusive sizing. Excellent quality-to-price ratio. The Supima cotton really does make a difference.
A no-fuss cotton Oxford that consistently ranks as an Amazon bestseller. It has the classic details — button-down collar, chest pocket, long sleeves you can roll — without the premium price tag. The Oxford weave gives it more structure than a basic poplin, so it holds its shape throughout the day.
Why I love it: Under $30, true Oxford cloth, and thousands of positive reviews. If you’re not ready to invest but want to test-drive the white shirt life, start here.
Beth’s Style Tip: Invest where it counts. I recommend owning at least two white shirts — one polished (like the Brooks Brothers or Banana Republic) for dressier occasions, and one relaxed (like the Frank & Eileen or the Amazon Cotton Oxford) for weekends and layering. That way you’re always covered.
🤍 The White Shirt Checklist
If you’re investing in a white shirt — and you should be — here’s what to look for:
Fabric matters. A cotton or cotton-blend with enough weight that it doesn’t go sheer. You shouldn’t need a strategy session just to figure out what goes underneath.
Fit is everything. Not too boxy, not too tight. You want room to move, to tuck, to layer — but you also want shape. Try sitting down in it before you buy. If it pulls across the chest or bunches at the waist, keep looking.
Details count. A well-placed dart, a clean placket, a collar that holds its shape after washing. These are the things that separate a shirt you wear once from a shirt you wear for years.
Care is part of the commitment. Wash in cold water, hang to dry when you can, and press the collar. A great white shirt earns its keep, but it does ask for a little attention in return.
💬 Your Turn
Do you have a white shirt that’s been with you through the years? Is there one hanging in your closet right now that deserves a second look? I’d love to hear about it — share in the comments below.
Because sometimes the most iconic piece in your closet isn’t the one that costs the most or got the most compliments. It’s the one that’s been there all along, quietly doing its job, waiting for you to notice.
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FAQ: The Iconic White Shirt
Why is the white shirt considered a fashion icon?
The white shirt has been at the center of fashion history for over 200 years — from Marie Antoinette’s scandalous 1783 portrait to Audrey Hepburn’s iconic look in Roman Holiday to Carolina Herrera’s signature style. It transcends trends, seasons, and generations, making it the single most enduring piece in women’s fashion.
How should women over 50 style a white button-down shirt?
Start with fit — a crisp, well-structured shirt that frames your face and shoulders. Tuck it into tailored trousers for a polished look, or layer it under a statement jacket to add personality. Finish with intentional accessories like pearls, a slim belt, or a structured bag. The white shirt is your foundation — everything else builds on it.
What are the best white shirts for women over 50?
Look for brands known for quality construction and flattering fit. Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Frank & Eileen, and Banana Republic all make excellent options at various price points. For budget-friendly alternatives, Lands’ End, Quince, and Amazon Essentials offer solid quality without the investment.
What makes a good quality white shirt?
Look for cotton or cotton-blend fabric with enough weight to avoid sheerness, a collar that holds its shape after washing, clean tailoring through the body, and details like well-placed darts and a smooth placket. A great white shirt should look as good on its tenth wear as it did on its first.
Can you wear a white shirt year-round?
Absolutely. In winter, layer it under sweaters, blazers, and jackets — let the collar peek out for that classic preppy-chic detail. In warmer months, wear it on its own with linen trousers or a great pair of jeans. The white shirt is one of the few pieces that truly works twelve months a year.
What’s the best affordable white button-down shirt?
Amazon Essentials and Amazon Cotton Oxford both offer well-reviewed white button-downs under $35. Lands’ End and Quince are excellent mid-range options that rival designer quality at a fraction of the price.
I have the Irish Linen shirt from JCrew and one white button up by Brochu Walker that I love. Also a silk off white blouse from Banana Republic. I am thinking about buying one of Ralph Laurens white button ups. I love his clothes too. I have other white blouse I wear also occasionally.
Great collection! You clearly know what works — the Brochu Walker and J.Crew Irish Linen are both beautiful. If you love Ralph Lauren, I’d say go for it. His button-ups are impeccable quality and the fit is timeless. You really can’t have too many white shirts!
I am not going to support Amazon but appreciate your opinions on the other white shirt options.
Thank you! A white shirt is one of those wardrobe essentials you really can’t have too many of. The J.Crew Irish Linen and Ralph Lauren are beautiful options!
I recommend Boden for beautiful colors and white blouse options. They are excellent quality, hold up well for years, and fit well.
Boden is such a great recommendation! Their quality really does hold up beautifully, and they have some of the best colors out there. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Beth,
Interesting and informative post! I have a gorgeous Orvis no-iron white shirt that has subtle, tasteful white embroidery on the v-neck yoke area (with mandarin-style collar) and stiff French cuffs. A client raved about it and said she knows white shirts. Another favorite is my Talbots’ tuxedo-style white shirt made from heavy Swiss dot material. The third I own is a classic white button-down, also Orvis, like the Brooks Brothers you feature as first shirt.
What a stunning collection! That Orvis with the white embroidery and French cuffs sounds absolutely gorgeous — no wonder your client noticed! And a Swiss dot tuxedo-style from Talbots is such a chic choice. You clearly have a great eye for classic pieces with just the right amount of detail. Thank you for sharing these — our readers are going to love these recommendations!
I love the look of a white shirt. It always looks classic and intentional. BUT — I look awful in white, even when just a collar shows around my face. Ivory is only OK. Ashy cool oatmeal is better. Any ideas about what MY “iconic white shirt” should be??
What a great question! White isn’t just one color — it comes in so many beautiful shades, and the key is finding the one that works with your skin tone. Since stark white and ivory don’t flatter you, try soft cream, ecru, champagne, or winter white. That ashy oatmeal you mentioned sounds like it could be your perfect ‘white.’ Look for terms like ‘natural,’ ‘bone,’ or ‘linen’ when shopping — those tend to have the cooler, muted undertones that would work beautifully for you. Your iconic white shirt is out there — it just might not be called ‘white’!
Love white shirts! Thanks for giving us options!
Thank you! There’s nothing more classic than a white shirt — and with so many beautiful shades to choose from, there really is a perfect one for everyone!
I have a no-iron white button up from Petite Sophisticate that I bought in the ‘90s. I wore it with suits in my corporate job. Eventually it became too small. It was such a fine smooth cotton that I didn’t want to give it away so I kept it. Over the past two years I lost 70 lbs. and it fits now. I was so happy to take it out of my bins of “too small clothes.” Everything else in those bins was too big but not that shirt and its sister pink button down. I love them both. They are in perfect condition even though they are 30 years old.
What an incredible story — and congratulations on your amazing journey! That says everything about the quality of a truly well-made shirt. Thirty years old and still in perfect condition — they really don’t make them like that anymore. There’s something so special about rediscovering a beloved piece and having it fit again. That white button-up and its pink sister were clearly worth holding onto. Thank you so much for sharing this!
I always admire your suggestions for white button downs. I like the idea of a white shirt and have purchased several only to have them hang in my closet. I don’t feel like they’re for me. My problem is how they blouse out around the waist when tucked in. Any recommendations for that? If tucked in and worn under a sweater, it creates a bulge around the waist. And when I sit down, the blouse comes out even more. So I tend to pass it over every time I get dressed. What am I doing wrong? I have a Talbots no iron and bought it in the smallest size so it is snug around my waist. Unfortunately, I don’t wear it either.
Great question — and fabric is a huge part of the solution! A stiff, heavy cotton is going to bunch up and create bulk every time. Look for shirts in a lightweight cotton poplin, cotton voile, or a cotton-silk blend — these fabrics drape beautifully and lay flat when tucked in without adding that extra volume around your waist. A shirt with a touch of stretch also helps it move with you so it stays tucked when you sit down. That crisp no-iron cotton can actually work against you here because it holds its shape instead of conforming to yours. A few other tips: look for a shirt with darts or a more fitted cut to reduce excess fabric at the waist. Try the ‘military tuck’ — fold the extra fabric at each side seam before tucking for a much cleaner line. A shirt tuck band is also a game changer — they’re inexpensive elastic bands you wear around your waist that hold everything in place, even when you sit down. You can find them on Amazon for under $10. And if you have a white shirt you love but the fit isn’t quite right, a good tailor can take in the sides for very little cost. Don’t give up on white shirts — the right fabric and a few tricks make all the difference!
Over time, I have worn a lot of Lands End button up shirts…mostly non iron, but not all white. Currently, my favorite white is the stand up collar tunic version from Talbots. Although a tad thin, very wearable in our southern climate. Looks great tucked in or out with a pair of straight black cotton pants or blue jeans. Love the additional ideas!
Such a wonderful message for my white shirt. Many great ideas.
Hi Beth – Gotta love a good white shirt! My closet also has classics from Foxcroft and Talbots. Lately I’ve joined in the comeback of dickies and collars for less cumbersome layering! If you haven’t already, do some research for us about those good options. Thanks!
Great taste — Foxcroft and Talbots make such reliable classics! And I love that you brought up dickies and collars — they’re such a smart layering solution, especially when you want the look without the bulk. That’s a great content idea — I’ll definitely look into it. Thank you!